Food for Thought: Relish in Kings Park

One of my favorite ways to start off the weekend is to have breakfast at Relish in Kings Park.

True to its name, the fare, service and ambiance of Relish are a tribute to the best things in life, the “pleasurable appreciation of food, family and life” itself.  And chef/owner Stephen Cardello, who studied at Manhattan’s French Culinary Institute, makes dining a dream, so much so that he has customers who patronize his establishment several times a week, and sometimes several times a day.

  “I always wanted to open a breakfast place,” said Mr. Cardello who served as executive chef at Bayport’s Grey Horse Tavern and Lincoln Center.   He eventually decided  that a home-style restaurant that served up breakfast, lunch and dinner was more in keeping with the community’s needs.

Those who are into healthy living will be delighted to know that the chef showcases the farm fresh goodness of organic eggs on his breakfast menu.  The most popular item for early-risers, and my husband’s personal favorite--the New School Egg Sandwich- offers up a healthful twist on the traditional  by pairing maple turkey sausage with  eggs, tomato , spinach and Swiss cheese on a whole grain roll.  There are  giant overstuffed omelets, including my personal favorite, the Cali (asparagus,  fire-roasted peppers, and creamy goat cheese) and from the griddle,  taste-tempting French toast and pancakes, including  “light as a cloud” ricotta pancakes topped with flavorful berries. Actually those ricotta pancakes are fast becoming my personal favorite!!!

Mr. Cardello, who likes to support his neighbors, gets his eggs, and plenty of them—210 dozen a week—from Raleigh’s Poultry Farms in Kings Park.

Relish is known for its fresh, winning salads, and I could make a meal out of the “Blue Salad,” a flavorful medley of romaine, carrots, granny smith apples, craisins and crunchy toasted sunflower seeds, dressed with blue cheese and white balsamic vinaigrette.  Mr. Cardello, who likes his produce organic and local as possible, literally has a field day when the Kings Park Farmers Market comes to town.

In terms of dinner, Mr. Cardello’s linguine and clams, which boast spicy homemade sausage, and traditional meatloaf, prepared just like his grandmother’s, are crowd-pleasers that keep patrons coming back for more.

“The meatloaf is fresh-ground beef, pork and veal,” Mr. Cardello said of this comfort food that goes naturally with mashed potatoes, brown gravy and a vegetable.

I am very particular about salmon and was delighted to learn that Mr. Cardello uses Scottish salmon that has been sustainably farm-raised in free-flowing waters.  The fish, seasoned with a little salt and pepper and olive oil, was perfection.

The delights of Coleman’s all-natural, free-range chicken are featured in another dinner entrée, the roasted maple-glazed chicken, paired with sweet potato mash and grilled asparagus. There are also daily specials.

Mr. Cardello gets his desserts from a local bakery, and the fare surprises from day to day, including pies, bread puddings, brownies and the chocolate cheesecake that we enjoyed one evening.

In addition to the food, there’s much to love about Relish’s ambiance.  There’s a welcoming air to the minimalist décor which highlights the  banquette seating which is the color of a granny smith apple or that first tentative blade of springtime grass.  Bead-boarding, wood floors, an oversized spoon and fork, and mounted macro-views of fruit make for a comfortable, family-friendly environment that is the perfect place to start the day or end the evening.

Relish is located at 2 Pulaski Road, Kings Park.  For information, call (631) 292-2740 or visit relishkingspark.com.